What AI Taught Me About Retrofitting Our 1915 Home
Green Home AI Retrofit Guide
🫧 Air Sealing & Blower Door Testing
Q: Why is a blower door test important before insulating or upgrading HVAC?
A: “A blower door test is the gold standard for measuring air leakage...
✅ Reveals the biggest sources of energy loss (attic, basement, walls)
✅ Guides air sealing and insulation upgrades for maximum impact
✅ Improves comfort by reducing drafts and stabilizing indoor temperatures”
Q: What kind of results should I expect from a blower door test?
A: “Professional energy assessors use blower door tests to measure ACH50 and pinpoint areas of leakage. Infrared imaging and nontoxic smoke pencils help locate gaps around framing, wiring, and plumbing.”
🧱 Attic Upgrade
🧰 Q: What steps did you take to upgrade your attic insulation?
A: "We decided remove the old fiberglass batts lining the floor. We replaced the knob-and-tube wiring before blowing in cellulose to R-55."
💡 Takeaway: Safe and effective attic upgrades often involve removal, wiring updates, and proper sealing before new insulation is added.
Q: What is horsehair insulation and why was it used in Minnesota attics around 1915?
A: “Horsehair was valued as an early insulator because it created an additional layer that slowed down airflow. While not as good at trapping heat as modern insulation, it helped with draft control.”
“It was cheap, durable, and widely available from horses used in agriculture. Builders used it wherever they thought it could add utility — in walls, attics, upholstery, even plaster.”
Q: What were the recommended steps for upgrading attic insulation in an old home?
A:
1. Remove old fiberglass batts.
2. Upgrade knob-and-tube wiring before blowing in insulation.
3. Seal air leaks around chimneys, plumbing stacks, and lights.
4. Use blown-in cellulose or spray foam for higher R-values.
5. Verify and improve attic ventilation to prevent moisture problems.
Q: Are there attic insulation options that preserve historical character?
A: “Yes — reversible upgrades like foam board under the roof deck or an insulated floor system can improve energy performance without disturbing the original materials.”
Q: Why is air sealing the attic important during a retrofit?
A: “Air leaks from below reduce the effectiveness of any insulation. Sealing gaps first — around chimneys, pipes, and attic hatches — locks in heat and stops stack effect losses.”
🧱 Basements
🌬️ Q: Why focus on the basement and rim joists during a retrofit?
A: "If the rim joists remain untouched, it can allow for significant air leakage, which contributes to the stack effect."
💡 Reminder: Rim joist air sealing is a high-value, often-overlooked step that greatly reduces heat loss and infiltration.
🔥 Q: How do I prepare my basement floor for radiant heat to work with an air-to-water heat pump?
A: “Lay a vapor barrier, then at least R-10 rigid foam, then PEX in a serpentine pattern... Pour 3 inches of concrete over it. Use a manifold with zones, and don’t forget a mixing valve since AWHPs produce water at 85°–125°F.”
“System Setup: Install thermostats and sensors. Test for leaks before the concrete pour. After curing, verify that the AWHP is delivering adequate heat.”
🧱 Q: Why do we insulate basements and rim joists in retrofits?
A: "Basements are huge heat sinks. Rim joists are notoriously leaky. If you don’t insulate and seal those, your house is sucking in cold air from the ground all winter."
💡 Takeaway: Even if you can’t insulate all your walls, prioritize rim joists and basement perimeter — they’re often the biggest hidden heat losses.
🧰 Q: What tool worked best to chip mortar in tight spaces?
A: 💡 Insight: Sometimes the best tool is the one you modify yourself — but for larger jobs, a right-angle rotary tool with a carbide bit may speed up delicate removal.
🧱 Basement Wall
Q: What kind of vapor barrier should I use in cold climates?
A: “In cold climates, the vapor barrier goes on the interior side of the wall assembly — the warm side. Use polyethylene sheeting, kraft-faced batts, or vapor-retarder paint.”
“Exterior layers should be vapor-permeable to let any trapped moisture escape.”
Q: What should I do if I see water stains or puddles in the basement?
A: “Major water leaks, such as persistent leaks and flooding in the spring and when it rains, must be corrected. Often the solution requires excavating, damp-proofing or waterproofing the basement, adding a drainage system and insulating from the exterior.”
Q: Are minor leaks okay to ignore if I’m planning insulation?
A: “Minor water leaks can sometimes be corrected by sloping the grade, aiming downspouts away from the house and patching the foundation on the interior. Correct any problems with sump pumps or sewer backup before beginning the insulation job.”
Q: How do I know if my basement is damp even if there’s no visible water?
A: “If the foundation walls and floors appear dry yet the space seems damp, this might indicate that moisture is wicking through the foundations and evaporating faster than it can accumulate.”
Q: What are the signs of persistent moisture problems?
A: “Staining or mould growth, blistering paint, efflorescence, spalling, and musty smell. Condensation can also form on the foundation walls in the summer when the air is very humid and the foundation is cool.”
Q: What steps should I take before insulating a damp basement?
A:
- Determine the source of moisture: roof runoff, slope, water table, leaky pipes
- Fix the problems: regrade soil, redirect downspouts, seal cracks, repair leaks
- Clean any mold or mildew
- If needed, excavate to install exterior moisture protection and drainage
Q: Can I insulate a basement that’s prone to moisture?
A: “Not always. For very wet basements prone to flooding, it may be best not to insulate the walls. Instead, treat the basement ceiling as an exposed insulated floor and maintain warmth from above.”
Q: How do I keep the new retrofit dry long-term?
A: “Add drainage, moisture barriers, dehumidification, and air circulation. After installation, retest for radon or soil gases and connect subfloor ventilation to an exhaust fan if needed.”
Q: Can I just paint a moisture barrier on the inside of a basement wall?
A: “Don’t be misled by claims that products that are painted or applied to interior basement surfaces will prevent moisture from seeping through walls or floors — they can’t.”
Q: What’s wrong with fiberglass insulation against a basement wall?
A: “Attaching wooden studs to the foundation wall and installing fiberglass insulation... is no longer recommended. The wood and insulation can become a good medium for growing mold and mildew when moisture finds its way between the foundation wall and the insulated wall.”
Q: Can I use batt insulation over rigid foam on basement walls?
A: “Yes. Build a framed wall right up against the foam and fill it with batts — fiberglass or mineral wool. Do not use a polyethylene vapor barrier with this setup. Use a smart vapor barrier or the airtight drywall approach (ADA) instead.”
Q: What is the ADA method and why use it on basement walls?
A: “The airtight drywall approach uses drywall, foam tape, and caulking to serve as both the air and vapor barrier. It prevents double vapor barriers and works well with rigid board insulation behind framed walls.”
🧱 Q: What’s the best way to insulate rim joists without using spray foam?
A: "If you're planning to insulate the rim joists and don't want to use spray foam, several effective alternatives are available...
- Rigid foam board cut to fit and sealed with caulk or spray foam
- Mineral wool batts with an air barrier like rigid foam or drywall
- Dense-pack cellulose with a vapor-permeable membrane
📏 Q: How do I make sure I don’t lose track of what’s behind the walls after insulation and drywall are installed?
A: "Use digital scanning tools or photo logs to document plumbing, wiring, and insulation details before closing up walls.
📅 Q: What’s the benefit of listing all pre-drywall tasks in a shared document?
A: "This list approach (demo, plumbing, insulation, ERV install, electric, wall finish decisions) shows how helpful it is to organize construction sequencing. It prevents overlaps, omissions, and unnecessary drywall repairs later."
🌡️ Q: Why does condensation form in walls, and how can you prevent it?
A: "The dew point is the temperature at which water vapor condenses into liquid. If a wall is cold enough and has humid interior air, water can form inside it... That’s why building assemblies often have vapor barriers, to stop moisture before it hits that cold surface."
💡 Insight: Proper insulation + air sealing keeps wall surfaces warm and prevents interstitial condensation — a major cause of mold and rot in retrofits.
🧰 Q: Why do I need to seal the masonry wall before adding foil-faced foam board? Isn’t the foam already an air barrier?
A: "Even though foil-faced foam board acts as an air barrier, sealing cracks in the masonry wall is still essential... Air leaks behind the foam board can bypass the air barrier and lead to condensation. Cracks also allow moisture intrusion and pests. Use hydraulic cement or masonry caulk before adding insulation."
💡 Lesson: Foam board works best on a sealed, dry, and stable wall — it’s not a substitute for prep work.
🧱 Basement Rim Joists
Q: What’s the best way to insulate and air-seal rim joists?
A: “Install rigid foam pieces carefully, sealing edges and around pipes, wires, and vents. Alternatively, use spray foam for both air sealing and insulation.”
Q: Where should the vapor barrier go in cold climates?
A: “In cold climates, the vapor barrier goes on the interior side of the wall assembly — the warm side. Use polyethylene sheeting, kraft-faced batts, or vapor-retarder paint.”
“Exterior layers should be vapor-permeable to let any trapped moisture escape.”
🧪 Hybrid and Exterior Options
Q: What if I want to insulate on the outside of the basement wall instead?
A: “Install 2 to 4 inches of rigid insulation like extruded polystyrene after waterproofing. Backfill with free-draining material and slope grade away from the wall.”
🧱 Basement Floor – Questions & Answers from a Real Retrofit
🔥 Q: How do I prepare my basement floor for radiant heat with an air-to-water heat pump?
A: “Lay a vapor barrier, then at least R-10 rigid foam, then PEX in a serpentine pattern... Pour 3 inches of concrete over it. Use a manifold with zones, and don’t forget a mixing valve since AWHPs produce water at 85°–125°F.”
“System Setup: Install thermostats and sensors. Test for leaks before the concrete pour. After curing, verify that the AWHP is delivering adequate heat.”
Q: What is your recommended basement floor layer build-up for insulation and in-floor heating?
A: “Compacted gravel base (3”), vapor barrier, R-10 rigid foam (2”), pex tubing (6”-12” spacing), 4” concrete slab... Total planned depth = 8 inches.”
🧰 Q: How do I check if my basement floor needs leveling before installing engineered wood?
A: “Use a 6–10 ft level or straightedge. Look for more than 1/8” variation over 6 ft. You can also drop a marble to see if it rolls. Self-leveling compound like Ardex K 15 can fix dips.”
Q: Should I use self-leveling compound on the perimeter where old and new concrete meet?
A: “Yes, having the contractor apply self-leveling compound along the entire perimeter... creates smooth transitions, prevents moisture trapping, and offers a durable, finished edge.”
Q: What does it cost to level a 750 sq. ft. basement floor?
A: “You’ll need about 25–30 bags of compound at $35–$50 each ($875–$1,500). Labor adds another $1,500–$3,750 depending on rates.”
🧱 Q: What’s the floor layer order if I’m insulating over an existing slab?
A: “Vapor barrier → Rigid foam insulation (1–2”) → Subfloor (plywood or OSB) → Flooring. Seal all seams, especially around the perimeter.”
Q: Can I use self-leveling compound on top of rigid foam in the basement?
A: “Yes, but only with compatible insulation boards and underlayments. Some setups require reinforcement (like metal lath) between insulation and compound.”
Q: How do I keep the slab warm with limited ceiling height?
A: “Use high-density underlayment (like cork) or radiant barrier films. These add less than 1/2” to floor height but won’t insulate as well as rigid foam.”
🪵 Q: Can I leave self-leveling compound as my finished basement floor?
A: “Technically, yes — but you must seal it. Unsealed, it’s porous, prone to dust, and stains easily. At minimum, apply a concrete densifier or water-based sealer.”
Q: Can I finish the basement floor by staining concrete instead of adding new flooring?
A: “Originally I was planning on no additional flooring in the basement, just try to stain or do something jazzy with the floor. The only reason to cover it is to hide the leveling issues...”
🏛️ Building Science
Q: What should be the first step in retrofitting a historic home?
A: “The first step is to make a plan. Amazingly, we found there was not enough insulation in the attic floor. So we did air sealing and took out the old insulation and had cellulose put back in again.”
Q: What’s the biggest target for improvement in historic homes?
A: “Whatever means the boiler used—coal, fuel oil, or natural gas—the boiler never needed to change its distribution, and many homes still retain original piping and radiators designed for steam heat. This is the biggest target we have.”
Q: What’s the difference between a retrofit and a renovation in the context of historic homes?
A:
• Retrofit: Targets energy efficiency, durability, indoor air quality, and sustainability through hidden/systemic upgrades.
• Renovation: Focuses on aesthetics and function — like kitchens or bathrooms — often altering original character.
Q: What are the essential factors of building science that drive performance in homes?
A: “Building Science Principles:
• Heat goes from warm to cold
• Water vapor goes from more to less
• Water vapor goes from warm to cold
• Air in must equal air out (and vice versa)
• Airflow requires pressure and a path
• Drain the rain (and the soil)
• Most of the action is at surfaces and connections
• Gas concentration (pollutants, water vapor, etc.) is a function of source strength and removal rate (ventilation)
=> Heat, air, and moisture flows drive performance.”
📐 Q: What is the typical retrofit sequence for maximizing energy performance?
A: “Home performance professionals often point to the attic, basement, and walls as the order in which energy efficiency projects should be tackled.”
💡 Tip: This simple sequence—top, bottom, walls—is a helpful retrofit rule-of-thumb for improving the building envelope step by step.
🌬️ Q: What’s the basic principle behind airflow in a building?
A: “Air flows because of pressure differences. And it always follows this rule: air needs a path and a pressure to move.”
💡 Rule of thumb: If you want to stop air from leaking, block both the path and eliminate the pressure driving it — like stack effect or wind.
Q: What are the risks associated with not upgrading or retrofitting an older home's systems?
A: “Choosing not to upgrade involves considerable risks including higher long-term energy costs, potential health issues from inadequate ventilation and mold, and structural problems from moisture or rot. These issues can significantly impact the durability and overall value of an aging home, making retrofits not just about efficiency but also about maintaining the integrity and longevity of the home itself.”
🔥 Boiler and Other HVAC
Q: Why does air sealing make ventilation more important?
A: “Tighter envelopes reduce natural ventilation, which can cause stale air, high humidity, or condensation. Include an HRV or ERV system to bring in fresh air without losing heat.”
Q: How does envelope work affect HVAC sizing?
A: “The tighter and better insulated your home is, the smaller your heating and cooling systems can be. That means lower install costs, better efficiency, and more comfort.”
Q: Can you use radiant panels below historic wood flooring?
A: “Yes — you don’t have to lift the historic ¾″ hardwood subfloor and ½″ birch floorboards. The total R-value (~1.3) is within the limit for radiant systems. Use heat transfer plates and slightly higher supply temps (~130°F).”
Q: Can I install the hybrid – dual fuel – system in two phases?
A: “Yes. Install a heat-pump-ready boiler and indoor unit now. Add the outdoor heat pump later, when weather or budget allows. This staged install is what I’m doing.”
Q: Do I need a buffer tank with an air-to-water heat pump?
A: “Not necessarily. If you design the zones and flow correctly, and use an electric boiler as backup, the system can function well without one. Avoiding extra tanks saves money and space.”
Q: What’s the advantage of combining a heat pump with a boiler (dual fuel)?
A: “It extends system life, reduces operating cost, and makes sure you have full coverage. The heat pump runs most of the time for efficiency; the boiler only kicks in during peak demand.”
Q: What are the steps to future-proof my boiler and radiator system?
A:
1. Upgrade the panel to 200 amps
2. Replace gas boiler with heat-pump-ready condensing boiler
3. Prep radiant zones and install thermostats
Q: Can an air-to-water heat pump work with my old radiators?
A: “Yes — especially the ECO HP system, offered by Weil-McLain, which can supply up to 149°F, allowing it to work with cast iron radiators that were originally designed for higher-temp water.”
Q: What if radiators aren’t enough at heat pump lower temps?
A: “Supplement with fan coils or radiant panels. Cast iron radiators may underperform at 120–130°F, but they can still handle part of the load if properly sized.”
Q: Can radiant panels from below (in basement ceiling) heat first-floor rooms?
A: “Yes. These panels radiate heat upward and improve comfort in the living areas. Ideal when joists are exposed, and performance can be enhanced with proper spacing, insulation, and water temps.”
Q: Do I need to update ventilation if I add insulation?
A: “Probably. More insulation changes how your attic handles moisture. You may need to add or adjust ridge vents, soffit vents, or install a baffle system to maintain airflow and prevent mold.”
Q: How much impact does an air-to-water heat pump really have on energy use and carbon?
A: “The air-to-water heat pump almost eliminates natural gas use (91% reduction)... Total site energy use drops by nearly 46%, right in line with the state’s 50% residential energy reduction aspirations.”
💡 Insight: When paired with envelope upgrades and a heat-pump-ready boiler, a single equipment switch can drive major gains toward state and federal climate goals.
Q: Is installing a heat pump on top of a boiler system overkill?
A: “No — it’s strategic. This heat pump completes the transition away from fossil fuels. It locks in high efficiency, future-proofs your HVAC system, and may qualify for rebates or incentives.”
Q: Can I still use my existing radiators with a new heat pump system?
A: “I installed this system from Weil-McLain — didn’t need to fully swap out radiators because it works with the existing system.”
“The ECO HP by Weil-McLain delivers water temps up to 149°F, making it compatible with standard high-temp radiator systems. The system operates in dual fuel mode, with the boiler kicking in only on the coldest days — increasing efficiency and extending appliance life.”
💡 Pro Tip: Retaining radiators avoids major construction while achieving deep decarbonization.
Q: Is it worth replacing all the pipes with PEX?
A: “Swapping to PEX could be a smart move if you're installing a heat pump... PEX reduces heat loss and is easier to work with — but if your current copper and cast iron pipes are still in good shape, the cost might not be justified.”
“You might consider a partial PEX upgrade in the basement or for new zones.”
🏠 Envelope
Q: What’s the right sequence when retrofitting an envelope?
A:
1. Fix moisture and drainage problems
2. Air seal leaks and gaps
3. Add or improve insulation
4. Address thermal bridging
5. Install vapor control
6. Add ventilation if needed
Q: How do you align the thermal boundary with the air barrier?
A: “Insulation only works well when air movement is controlled. Make sure insulation is installed continuously and without gaps, and that the air barrier follows the same line to avoid bypasses.”
Q: What’s thermal bridging and how do I prevent it?
A: “Thermal bridging is when heat bypasses insulation through framing, masonry, or metal. Add continuous exterior insulation (like foam board) to break these bridges and reduce loss.”
Q: Do I need a vapor barrier in my retrofit walls?
A: “In cold climates, yes — but placement matters. Put the vapor barrier on the interior side (warm side) of the insulation. However, in older homes with breathable materials (like plaster and wood), avoid impermeable plastic barriers that can trap moisture.”
Q: Can I use kraft-faced batts as a vapor control layer?
A: “Yes — kraft-faced fiberglass acts as a vapor retarder when installed correctly. For better performance, consider smart vapor retarders or vapor-retarder paint that adjust with humidity.”
Q: How do I prevent mold or insulation failure from trapped moisture?
A: “Address leaks and groundwater first — fix grading and drainage. Only then should you add rigid foam or spray foam to walls. Otherwise, you’re locking moisture in.”
🏠 Historic Homes
Q: How do you modernize plumbing, electrical, and water systems in a historic home without disturbing architectural features?
A: “Many historic homes have outdated infrastructure. Electrical systems can be modernized by replacing old knob-and-tube wiring with modern systems that handle renewable energy. Smart thermostats and energy-monitoring systems further increase efficiency. For water systems, consider electric heat pump water heaters and low-flow fixtures to maintain historical aesthetics while significantly reducing water consumption.”
Q: How can I retrofit historic doors to meet modern energy codes without compromising their design?
A: “Historic doors can be preserved by sealing gaps, restoring weatherstripping, and adding insulated thresholds. Additionally, integrating modern ventilation systems, like HRVs or ERVs, helps maintain indoor air quality and energy efficiency.”
Q: What eco-friendly materials are suitable for repairs in a historic home?
A: “Reclaimed old-growth timber, lime-based mortars and plasters, and natural insulation materials like wool or cork are excellent sustainable options that align with historical integrity.”
Q: How do you handle moisture and airflow challenges in older homes?
A: “Install vapor barriers and drainage systems to protect basements and preserve stone foundations. Proper attic ventilation prevents issues like heat buildup in summer and ice dams in winter.”
Q: How can I tell if my home's walls were previously insulated?
A: “In your case... it’s likely that mineral wool was blown in during a mid-century upgrade... After injecting the insulation, the contractors would have patched the holes and re-stuccoed the exterior.”
👀 Look for: Circular patches, and check historical permits if available.
💡 Recognizing Electrical Limitations in Historic Homes
Q: Why can’t we just blow in more insulation right away?
A: “We can’t add to this, though, until the knob-and-tube wiring that lurks in the walls is removed.”
⚠️ Caution: Adding insulation around active knob-and-tube wiring is a fire risk and not code-compliant.
Q: What's the difference between a retrofit and a renovation in the context of historic homes?
A:
• Retrofit: Improves energy efficiency, durability, and indoor air quality through hidden/systemic improvements.
• Renovation: Focuses on visible functional and aesthetic changes, potentially altering the original character of the home.
🔥 Q: When should a homeowner consider air-to-air versus air-to-water heat pumps in a retrofit?
A: “The main factor is the existing distribution system. If the home already has hydronic distribution, air-to-water heat pumps are a great fit. Without hydronics, air-to-air systems are often more cost-effective.”
🌬️ Q: What is the stack effect, and how do rim joists factor in?
A: “In the basement, asbestos pipe wrap lingered. The rim joists remain untouched, allowing for significant air leakage, contributing to what building scientists call the 'stack effect,' which is cool air being sucked in the bottom of the house and pushing warm air out the top.”
💡 Insight: Addressing rim joist insulation and sealing air leaks at the basement level is crucial to reducing drafts and energy loss.
Q: In what order should energy efficiency projects be tackled in old homes?
A: “Home performance professionals often point to the attic, basement, and walls as the order in which energy efficiency projects should be tackled. For a deep retrofit that reduces the carbon footprint by 50% or more, the process usually involves dismantling and then reassembling parts of the house.”
💨 Mechanical Ventilation
🧱 Q: Where can you place an ERV when your ceiling is open?
A:
"The ceiling is open so I could place the ERV between the joists, but the wall has a hole in it parallel to the opening of the ceiling, so we may use that."
"I am going to have a professional install it, and I am wondering what other people are doing in similar conditions."
💡 Insight: Retrofits often benefit from flexible placement of mechanical ventilation—between joists or wall cavities—especially during open-wall conditions before drywall is installed.
💨 Q: Why not rely on passive airflow in a finished basement?
A:
"Basements are often sealed up tighter than other parts of the house, especially in retrofits, so if you don’t provide a controlled ventilation strategy, moisture buildup and poor air quality are real concerns."
💡 Tip: Even if insulation and air sealing are done well, mechanical ventilation becomes more essential to avoid stale air and mold growth in tight, finished lower levels.
🌬️ Q: What’s the purpose of mechanical ventilation, and why does it matter in a tight building?
A:
"Moisture can be difficult to control in buildings. Ensuring moisture is managed appropriately becomes increasingly important as a building is ‘tightened up’ via air sealing and insulation."
"Proper ventilation helps ensure airflow and keeps occupants comfortable... especially when implementing ASHRAE 62.2 ventilation standards."
💡 Insight: Air sealing without balanced ventilation risks mold and poor indoor air quality. Mechanical ventilation like HRVs/ERVs should be integrated early in retrofit plans.
📚 Retrofit Course Development
Q: What is the Home Energy Score and how did you use it to guide your retrofit?
A: “Like a miles-per-gallon rating for a car, the Home Energy Score provides a snapshot of your home’s efficiency. I used it to benchmark progress and evaluate the impact of upgrades — from sealing and insulation to HVAC changes.”
Q: Can homeowners use the Home Energy Score tool themselves?
A: “Yes. While trained professionals typically generate the score, homeowners with a basic understanding of building science can use the preview tool to assess their own homes and model upgrade scenarios.”
Q: How does HES help with making real-world decisions?
A: “It lets you see how much energy you’re using, where it’s going, and what savings you can expect from targeted changes. It focuses on fixed features — like insulation, HVAC, and windows — not occupant behavior.”
📊 Q: What would a “choice map” for homeowners look like?
A: “Imagine a matrix that connects a homeowner’s current problem — like comfort, cost, or system failure — to a few smart options and tradeoffs. Instead of a linear checklist, it’s more like a branching tree that adapts.”
💡 Design idea: Build a visual flowchart that maps starting points (cold floors, noisy boiler, etc.) to upgrade paths — with cost, carbon, and comfort overlays.
🌐 Q: Why build a digital retrofit community instead of just offering static guidance?
A: “There is no way a single expert can answer every situation. We need a platform that learns from what homeowners try, what contractors propose, and what works in the field — and adapts from it.”
💡 Insight: A dynamic digital community helps scale retrofit knowledge by pooling real-time solutions from homeowners, contractors, and energy advisors.
🧠 Q: How can a retrofit platform encourage behavior change without being preachy?
A: “Instead of 'here's what you should do,' we could say 'here’s what worked for someone in a similar house.' Let people explore paths, not feel judged.”
💡 Strategy: Normalize decision-making as a learning process — and present upgrades as experiments, not mandates.
🧰 Q: What does a good learning loop look like for retrofit tools?
A: “Step 1: Ask questions. Step 2: Try a solution. Step 3: Share results. Step 4: Adjust. A smart system learns from patterns — but the humans in it also start making better choices because they’re seeing the impact.”
💡 Framework: Combine peer feedback with AI-supported reflection to foster continuous improvement in retrofit planning.
🏁 Q: How do we keep people engaged long after the first retrofit step?
A: “We should treat it like fitness: celebrate milestones, offer progress tracking, let people share their achievements. Maybe even badges for things like 'sealed the attic' or 'modeled your score.'”
💡 Motivation: Use small wins, community recognition, and clear next steps to sustain energy retrofit momentum.
Retrofitting means renewing the core energy systems.
In our “case study”, we took a hopelessly outdated (system-wise) turn of the century home, did the required mix of demolition and removal, followed by air sealing and insulation along with a high efficiency heating system upgrade get us to our target: a 36% reduction in energy use and 42% reduction in carbon emissions.
Individually, none of the upgrades would have delivered a 40% carbon cut:
Basement wall insulation alone: modest improvement without airtightness.
Boiler replacement alone: saves gas but doesn’t stop air/heat loss.
Air sealing alone: leaks would reappear without insulation/stability.
🔑 But together, they:
Reinforce each other’s effects,
Allow for right-sized, efficient systems,
Cut heating loads (most critical in MN),
Reduce fossil fuel dependency,
Prepare the home for future electrification (e.g., heat pump retrofit).
So, although I’m pausing the work for now, my plan is to push toward 100% electrical use by adding an air-to-water heat pump that works with radiators when the technology improves in the next year or two. Not installing an air-to-water heat pump system - or any heat pump system! - today was a very hard decision. One factor was that I couldn’t find someone excited to install this type of heat pump system (which works with radiators) here in Minnesota, despite being used all over Europe and Japan.
There were many, many, many other issues I used AI for: from writing a contractor scope of work to exploring building science questions. Those same conversations — and hundreds more — now also help power Green Home Club's AI chatbot, which already was a tremendous resource for other homeowners doing this work (as always, check your answers with professionals before implementing ideas).
Take a look at Green Home AI’s answers to many topics - especially if you are working on an old house - you’ll see you’re not alone in this!
